Discover the culinary specialities of Mulhouse in Alsace

Mulhouse, the second-largest city in Alsace, is known for its great technical museums and its industrial past. But it is also a city where you eat well! Its cuisine is that of the Haut-Rhin, at the crossroads of France, Germany and Switzerland: generous, seasonal and nourished by produce from the nearby Sundgau and the vineyards of the Vosges foothills. Here are the specialities to try and the best places to discover them.

The great Alsatian classics to try in Mulhouse

• Choucroute garnie: finely shredded, fermented white cabbage cooked in white wine with bacon, then served with sausages (knacks, Montbéliard or Strasbourg sausage), smoked pork shoulder and steamed potatoes.
• Baeckeoffe: a slow-cooked dish of three meats (pork, beef and lamb) marinated in white wine, baked slowly in the oven with potatoes and onions in an earthenware dish sealed with a strip of dough.
• Tarte flambée (flammekueche): a very thin bread dough topped with fromage blanc and cream, onions and lardons, baked for a few minutes in a very hot oven.
• Knepfle and spaetzle: small fresh egg noodles, often served as a side dish or baked au gratin.
• Munster: the emblematic cheese of the Alsatian Vosges, soft with a washed rind, enjoyed with cumin and jacket potatoes.
• Kougelhopf (kouglof): a ring-shaped brioche with raisins and almonds, a must at Sunday breakfast.

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Sundgau fried carp, the speciality of southern Alsace

South of Mulhouse, the Sundgau and its many ponds have made fried carp (carpe frite) their signature dish. Cut into fillets, coated in semolina and then fried, it is eaten with your fingers, accompanied by chips, salad, lemon and mayonnaise. An association of some thirty restaurateurs runs the waymarked “Fried Carp Routes” (Routes de la carpe frite) between Illfurth, Altkirch, Ferrette and the Swiss border: a lovely half-day outing from Mulhouse.

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Where to find local produce in Mulhouse

The Canal Couvert market, often described as the largest market in eastern France, is the place to be for food lovers. It is held on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, from early morning until late afternoon. More than 300 traders sell Alsatian produce, fruit and vegetables, cooked meats, cheeses and flavours from around the world; on Saturdays, one aisle is reserved for small local producers. It is the ideal place to buy munster, smoked charcuterie or honey.

The Christmas market and its sweet treats

During Advent, the Mulhouse Christmas market stands out for its Christmas fabric (étoffe de Noël), a textile designed every year and inspired by the patterns of the Museum of Printed Textiles, which decorates the Place de la Réunion. For food lovers, don’t miss the bredele (small Alsatian Christmas biscuits), gingerbread, mulled wine and the Rhineland specialities in the spotlight.

Which wines and beers go with Mulhouse cuisine?

There are no vineyards in Mulhouse itself, but the Alsace Wine Route begins about twenty kilometres away, in Thann, at the foot of the famous Rangen grand cru. Alsace wines are mostly white: a dry Riesling with sauerkraut, a Sylvaner or Pinot Blanc with tarte flambée, a Gewurztraminer with munster. The only red grape variety is Pinot Noir, pleasant with baeckeoffe. Beer, deeply rooted in Alsatian tradition, also goes very well with a tarte flambée.

Our tips for a foodie stay

• Book a table at a winstub or a traditional brasserie in the centre to try sauerkraut or baeckeoffe (the latter sometimes has to be ordered in advance).
• Go to the Canal Couvert market on a Saturday morning to enjoy the producers’ aisle.
• Combine a day of museums (Cité de l’Automobile, Cité du Train) with a fried carp lunch in the Sundgau.
• Take home a kougelhopf, some munster or a bottle of grand cru as a souvenir.

Enzo

Hi, I'm Enzo! I'm the guy who loves lacing up his hiking boots to explore the rugged trails of the Vosges. Passionate about nature and photography, I take you along through articles that capture the scent of fir forests and the charm of mountain lakes. I live for those moments when the sun rises over the Haut-Koenigsbourg or when I stumble upon an authentic inn along the way. My goal? To inspire you to get out, breathe in the fresh Alsatian air, and always have a great spot for a tarte flambée to share at the end of the day.

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