Presskopf: the Alsatian head cheese recipe

Presskopf (literally “pressed head”) is the Alsatian version of head cheese, or brawn: a terrine of pork set in its own jelly, sharpened with a touch of vinegar. Served in well-chilled slices with a vinaigrette, onions and gherkins, it is a must-have starter in winstubs and at village fête meals. It takes time to make, but it isn’t difficult: the natural gelatine from the trotters and head does all the work.

Origins and tradition

Like many peasant dishes, Presskopf was born of the traditional pig slaughter: nothing of the animal was wasted, and the gelatine-rich cuts (head, cheeks, ears, trotters, hock) were slowly simmered and then pressed into a terrine. Its pronounced tanginess is the Alsatian signature. There is also a version made with carp, inherited from the Jewish cuisine of Alsace.

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Ingredients for 8 to 10 people (one 1.5-litre terrine)

• 1/2 pig’s head (or, easier to find: 1 kg pork cheeks and 1 ear)
• 1 pork hock (about 1 kg)
• 2 split pig’s trotters (essential for the jelly)
• 2 carrots
• 1 leek
• 1 celery stick
• 1 large onion studded with 3 cloves
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley)
• 10 black peppercorns
• 500 ml dry Alsace white wine (Sylvaner or Pinot Blanc)
• 100 ml white wine vinegar
• 3 shallots, finely chopped
• 1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• 4 to 6 gherkins, finely diced (optional)
• Salt, freshly ground pepper

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Timing

• Prep: 45 minutes
• Cooking: 3½ to 4 hours
• Chilling: at least 12 hours (ideally 24 hours)

Step by step

1. Ask your butcher to clean and singe the head and trotters. Rinse all the meat in cold water.
2. Put the head (or the cheeks and ear), the hock and the trotters in a large stockpot. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, simmer for 5 minutes, then discard the water and rinse the meat: this gives a clearer stock.
3. Return the meat to the pot with the carrots, leek, celery, clove-studded onion, garlic, bouquet garni, peppercorns and white wine. Add cold water to cover and season lightly with salt.
4. Cook at a gentle simmer, covered, for 3½ to 4 hours, skimming from time to time. The meat should fall off the bone on its own.
5. Lift out the meat and leave it to cool slightly. Strain the stock through a fine sieve, then reduce it over a high heat until you have about 750 ml.
6. Carefully take the meat off the bone, removing the bones, tough cartilage and excess fat. Cut the meat (and the tongue, if you’ve added one) into small cubes or strips.
7. Off the heat, add the vinegar, shallots and parsley to the reduced stock. Taste: the seasoning should be bold, as chilling dulls the flavours.
8. Mix the meat, the gherkins if using, and the stock, then pour everything into a terrine lined with cling film. The meat should be just covered with liquid.
9. Place a small board or a second terrine weighed down (with 2 or 3 tins) on top and refrigerate for at least 12 hours.
10. Turn out, cut into 1 cm slices and serve well chilled.

How to serve it

In Alsace, Presskopf is served drizzled with a punchy vinaigrette (oil, vinegar, mustard, shallot), with red onion rings and gherkins. It is also delicious with sautéed potatoes or a warm potato salad and a green salad.

Recommended wines and drinks

Choose a crisp, dry Alsace white that stands up to the dish’s acidity: a Sylvaner, a Pinot Blanc or a Riesling. An ice-cold Alsatian lager is the other traditional winstub pairing.

Variations

• Add a pork tongue, cooked with the other meat, for a more melt-in-the-mouth texture.
• Replace some of the head with pork shoulder for a leaner terrine (always keep the trotters for the jelly).
• For a more aromatic note, add a few juniper berries to the stock.

Chef’s tips

• Never boil hard: a gentle simmer gives tender meat and a clear stock.
• Test the set before filling the terrine: pour a spoonful of reduced stock onto a cold plate and put it in the fridge for 10 minutes. If it doesn’t set, reduce it further.
• Presskopf keeps for 4 to 5 days in the fridge, tightly wrapped.

Lucas

Hi, I’m Lucas! My heart beats for the pleasures of the table, and here in Alsace, I’m in paradise. Whether it’s a glass of Riesling shared with friends, a hearty sauerkraut dish, or a culinary adventure around a blueberry tart, I live every meal like a celebration. My goal? To make you hungry with articles that highlight our local producers, talented chefs, and delicious specialties. But beware, I don’t just eat (well, almost): I also offer itineraries to explore our vineyards and gourmet markets.

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